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Dishes by Oro by Nixta. PHOTO: Oro by Nixta
The Gospel of Corn:
How Chefs Kate and Gustavo Romero Are Redefining Mexican Cuisine in the Midwest at Oro by Nixta
At Oro by Nixta, heirloom corn isn’t just an ingredient—it’s a sacred story. Chefs Kate and Gustavo Romero are turning masa into a movement, one tortilla at a time.
By MEZCULTURE / JUNE, 2025
PHOTO: Oro by Nixta
In a culinary landscape where trends often eclipse tradition, Oro by Nixta stands as a living, breathing altar to Mexican heritage. Helmed by husband-and-wife team Chef Gustavo Romero and Chef Kate Romero, this restaurant does more than serve food—it revives ancient foodways and delivers them with reverence, flavor, and fierce intentionality. Their kitchen is rooted in one mission: to celebrate and protect heirloom corn—a staple of Mexican culture, cuisine, and identity that too often gets lost in translation north of the border.
At Oro by Nixta, corn isn’t a side dish. It’s the soul of the menu.
EVENTS
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PHOTO: Oro by Nixta
Masa as Manifesto: Why Corn Comes First
For Chefs Gustavo and Kate, heirloom corn is both a medium and a message. Every tortilla, tamal, or tetela on their menu begins with nixtamalization—a centuries-old process of soaking corn in alkaline water that unlocks both its flavor and nutrients. It’s the kind of labor-intensive ritual that’s rarely practiced in U.S. restaurants, but for the Romeros, it’s non-negotiable.
“We don’t cut corners because the tradition doesn’t,” says Chef Gustavo Romero, who grew up in Tulancingo, Hidalgo, where corn was part of daily life. “Making masa from scratch ties us directly to generations of cooks and farmers. It’s cultural preservation in real time.”
Chef Kate Romero adds: “We want to celebrate and preserve traditional foodways, especially those rooted in Indigenous and Mexican heritage. Working with heirloom corn is our way of honoring that lineage while building something beautiful and new.”
Tortillas azules, blue corn. PHOTO: © Marcos Castillo | Dreamstime.com
The Intimacy of the Kernel: Sourcing and Respecting Heirloom Corn
Oro by Nixta sources its corn directly from small-scale Mexican farms, ensuring that each varietal comes with a story, a terroir, and a purpose. Their sourcing practices support agricultural biodiversity by sustaining varieties that have been passed down through generations but are now at risk due to industrial farming.
“Every corn varietal behaves differently,” says Gustavo. “Some are more delicate, some need more water, some are great for tamales, others perfect for tortillas. Over time, you develop a relationship with each one. I can smell a tortilla and almost always guess the subspecies.”
That level of attention allows their masa to do more than just hold a dish—it becomes the centerpiece. And it introduces many first-time guests to the real taste of corn—earthy, nutty, floral, and alive.
Mole. PHOTO: Adrian Nastase | Dreamstime.com
Mole with a Mission: Sauce as Seasonal Expression
If masa is the restaurant’s heartbeat, mole is its pulse. Chef Gustavo is quick to point out that mole is not a single recipe, but a mother technique—a culinary form of poetry that evolves over time, shifting with the seasons and ingredients at hand.
“We still use the starter we had when we first opened five years ago,” he says. “It’s like a living organism. Every batch is connected to the one before it.”
Chef Kate notes their moles also reflect a practical modern touch: they’re entirely gluten-free—a thoughtful deviation from traditional roux-based preparations, and one welcomed by many of their guests. “It’s a small innovation that allows more people to experience the full spectrum of flavors without compromise,” she says.
Barbacoa. PHOTO: Carlosrojas20 | Dreamstime.com
A Barbacoa with Two Passports
One of the restaurant’s signature dishes—barbacoa with barszcz—may be the most personal item on the menu. It’s an homage to both chefs’ heritage: barbacoa from Tulancingo, the chef’s hometown in Hidalgo, and barszcz, a beet-based soup nodding to his wife Kate’s Polish roots.
“It’s a dish that’s rooted in where we come from—emotionally and geographically. And it just works. People love it,” he says.
That philosophy—personal, poetic, political food—is what has earned Oro national acclaim, including a James Beard Award finalist nod for Best New Restaurant. Not bad for what the chefs call a “risky Covid hail mary.”
PHOTO: Oro by Nixta
A James Beard Nod and a Mission Bigger Than Awards
In 2023, Oro by Nixta was named a finalist for the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant, catapulting the modest tortillería into national recognition. For the Romeros and their team, the nomination was an emotional milestone.
“We started this as a Hail Mary during Covid,” says Kate. “To be recognized on a national stage felt surreal—but more importantly, it validated the risks we took and the community we built.”
They credit their team first. “These are folks who believed in what we were doing before the spotlight came,” adds Gustavo. “They’ve been with us in the trenches, and they deserve this just as much as we do.”
Heirloom Corn. PHOTO: Irving Joaquin Gutierrez
Sustainability Through Flavor: The Case for Heirloom Corn
The Romeros are adamant that the future of food lies in biodiversity. “Climate change is making it harder to grow the same crops year after year,” says Gustavo. “Heirloom corn varieties have different tolerances to soil, water, and heat. Preserving that diversity isn’t optional—it’s essential.”
They’ve taken that mission beyond their own kitchen. Currently, they’re collaborating with scientists and chefs through a USDA grant project studying the bioavailability of heirloom corn in the Midwest—a pioneering effort that could redefine how corn is grown and appreciated across America.
Purple Tortillas. PHOTO: Mezculture
Educating the American Palate: Yes, Tortillas Can Be Purple
One of the Romeros’ biggest joys is watching diners bite into a real corn tortilla for the first time—and realizing it tastes like something.
“Sometimes guests think a purple or pink tortilla is gimmicky,” says Kate. “But then they try it and suddenly they’re wide-eyed, tasting real corn—maybe for the first time in their life.”
Their menu is designed to be a slow, joyful revelation: of depth, complexity, and connection to land and culture. It’s not just a meal—it’s a lesson.
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Chef Gustavo and Chef Kate. PHOTO: Oro by Nixta
A Marriage Built on Masa (and Organized Chaos)
Running a restaurant is never easy. Running it with your life partner? That’s a whole different level. For the Romeros, it’s a labor of love—and logistics.
“Kate is the operations master. I tend to push boundaries, maybe too much,” Gustavo laughs. “But we balance each other. We challenge each other. And we actually get to see each other.”
Kate agrees: “There are challenges, of course. But the victories are shared. That makes all the difference.”
Their combined strengths are evident in every detail—whether it’s Kate’s meticulous pickles and vegetables or Gustavo’s ever-evolving sauces and ambitious timelines. It’s a partnership built on mutual respect, creative tension, and unshakable purpose.
Heirloom corn chips. PHOTO: © Photoeuphoria | Dreamstime.com
What’s Next: Chips, Milanesas, and a Cookbook of Corn Dreams
As if running a nationally acclaimed restaurant wasn’t enough, the Romeros have expanded their culinary vision with the opening of Tixtli by Nixta, where they’re experimenting with milanesas, chips, and playful dishes that still carry their core values.
“Everyone loves chips,” says Kate with a grin. “But what if they were heirloom chips? What if they told a story too?”
They’re also in the early stages of a cookbook project, aimed at reintroducing corn as the centerpiece of the American plate—not as a side dish slathered in butter, but as a vibrant, versatile main character.
The Grand Mezcal Pairing: A Cultural Celebration at Mezcal Culture Fest
As part of their ongoing mission to elevate Mexican food culture and agave traditions, Chef Gustavo Romero joined forces with Chef Dan Wood of Moxy South Beach for an exclusive six-course fundraising dinner paired with Tres Tribus Mezcal on the opening day of Mezcal Culture Fest (June 27, 2025).
The dinner featured thoughtful masa-driven dishes paired with rare mezcals, with proceeds benefiting S.A.C.R.E.D. (Saving Agave for Culture, Recreation, Education, and Development)—an organization that supports rural Mexican communities engaged in agave farming and heritage preservation.
This limited-seating event was more than a meal. It was a tribute to tradition, terroir, and the people working every day to keep both alive.
PHOTO: Oro by Nixta
When Masa Meets Mezcal, Magic Happens
In the expert pairing of real masa and wild mezcal, there’s a deep resonance—one born of earth, patience, smoke, and sweat. At Oro by Nixta, every tortilla carries that essence. Every mole, every dish, is a conversation between past and future.
And as Kate and Gustavo Romero continue to grow, educate, and collaborate, they prove that Mexican cuisine in America isn’t just evolving—it’s awakening.
Come hungry. Leave changed.