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Xicala Mezcal. PHOTO: Xicala Mezcal

From Revolution to Revelation: The Legacy of Xicala Mezcal

The legacy of Xicala Mezcal intertwines a century of family tradition, artisanal production, and sustainable innovation rooted in the rich cultural and natural heritage of Oaxaca.

By MEZCULTURE / JANUARY, 2025 

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EVENTS

Xicala Mezcal expressions. PHOTO: Xicala Mezcal

In the heart of Oaxaca’s Tlacolula Valley, where arid winds kiss fertile soil and the whispers of history are carried by the mountains, lies the story of Xicala Mezcal. It is a tale that begins over a century ago amidst the turmoil of the Mexican Revolution and blossoms into a testament to tradition, innovation, and sustainability.

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Eric Hernandez (Master Distiler). PHOTO: Xicala Mezcal

The Birth of a Legacy

The foundation of the Xicala Mezcal story begins in 1913, when Don Ernesto Chagoya Llaguno, compelled by economic hardships during the Revolution, constructed a volcanic stone oven to produce mezcal. His endeavor, born of necessity, planted the seeds for a family legacy that would endure through generations. The Chagoya family’s commitment to mezcal was not just about survival; it became a deeply rooted cultural practice and an unwavering passion.
 

By 1920, as the dust of the Revolution settled and businesses began to thrive across Mexico, Don Ernesto and his daughter, Doña Maria del Carmen Chagoya Hernandez, formalized their efforts by establishing Destilería Tlacolula. Together, they crafted mezcal not only as a livelihood but as an artisanal masterpiece, embodying the resilience and spirit of Oaxaca.

A Valley Like No Other

The Tlacolula Valley, nestled within the Mezcal Route, is not just a geographical location; it’s a terroir unlike any other. Surrounded by the rugged Nudo Mixteco mountains, this region benefits from volcanic activity that shaped its sandy, permeable soil. Situated at an altitude of 5,000 feet, the semi-desert climate ensures agave plants mature in optimal conditions, absorbing the essence of their environment. These factors give Xicala Mezcal its distinctive complexity, blending earthy, smoky, and herbal notes that reflect the valley’s soul.

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Roasting piñas. PHOTO: Xicala Mezcal

Innovation Meets Tradition

Under the guidance of Noé Hernández Chagoya, the business flourished, expanding its reach while maintaining its artisanal roots. Today, his son, Eric Hernández Cortés, a civil engineer and visionary Maestro Mezcalero, has embraced modern techniques to elevate the production process. Eric has not only improved agave cultivation and selection but has patented several innovations to enhance sustainability and quality.


Eric’s approach exemplifies the balance between honoring traditional mezcal-making techniques and integrating modern advancements. From planting agave to distillation, his commitment to quality is unwavering. The volcanic stone oven remains central to the process, its porous texture retaining humidity for even cooking. Additionally, the clay grid prevents agave fibers from directly contacting wood during roasting, resulting in a cleaner, less smoky flavor profile that distinguishes Xicala from competitors.

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The Art of Maturation

Patience is a virtue in the world of mezcal. Xicala’s agaves mature for 7 to 10 years before harvest, allowing them to accumulate rich sugars essential for fermentation. The traditional "capado" process, where the central stalk (quiote) is removed at peak sugar accumulation, ensures the agave produces the best molasses for mezcal. This extended maturation imbues Xicala with layers of flavor, a hallmark of its artisanal excellence.

Fermentation: A Dance of Nature and Craftsmanship

Xicala’s fermentation process honors ancestral methods while leveraging proprietary yeast strains derived from wild yeast. Fermentation occurs in wooden barrels, a practice that preserves tradition and enhances the complexity of the final product. Unlike industrial producers who use stainless steel to expedite the process, Xicala’s eight-day fermentation period allows for a depth of flavor that is both robust and nuanced.

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Sustainability at the Core

The Chagoya family’s respect for nature is evident in Xicala’s sustainable practices. Their commitment begins with agave cultivation. By maintaining their own plantations and planting crops like corn and beans to rejuvenate the soil after harvests, they ensure the land remains fertile. They also lead initiatives to cultivate endangered wild agave species such as Tobalá, Tepeztate, and Jabalí under controlled conditions, preserving their genetic diversity for future generations.


Water management is another cornerstone of sustainability. The distillery operates with licenses for three wells on its properties, monitoring aquifer levels to ensure responsible usage. These measures not only address the challenges of water scarcity but also exemplify the brand’s dedication to ethical production.

Beyond Mezcal: A Celebration of Culture

Each bottle of Xicala Mezcal is adorned with an alebrije - a hand-carved wooden spirit animal, a homage to Oaxacan artistry and heritage. Alebrijes, known for their vibrant colors and fantastical designs, were first popularized in the mid-20th century by artisan Pedro Linares. These figures hold a deep connection to Mexican folklore, often representing the union of the spiritual and natural worlds. The alebrijes on Xicala bottles are crafted by artisans in San Antonio Arrazola, one of Mexico’s poorest communities, where the tradition of carving and painting these figures thrives. By incorporating these carvings, Xicala supports local craftspeople, providing them with income and pride in their work. This partnership not only showcases the beauty of Mexican handcrafts but also celebrates and sustains a vital aspect of Oaxacan culture, extending the brand’s cultural footprint far beyond the spirit itself.

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The Future of Mezcal

As mezcal gains global acclaim, Xicala remains steadfast in its commitment to Oaxacan roots. Expansion into international markets is driven by a mission to share the rich heritage of mezcal while promoting sustainable practices. The brand’s programs for crop rotation, organic composting, and genetic preservation ensure that the future of mezcal production remains bright and balanced.

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Xicala Mezcal is more than a drink; it is a legacy of resilience, a celebration of Oaxaca’s rich terroir, and a beacon of sustainable innovation. From the volcanic stone ovens of Tlacolula to the wooden spirit animals adorning each bottle, every element of Xicala tells a story of tradition, artistry, and respect for the land. As the brand continues to grow, it carries with it the spirit of the Chagoya family and the enduring magic of mezcal. Whether you’re savoring a glass in Oaxaca or across the globe, Xicala invites you to taste history, honor the present, and toast to a sustainable future.

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