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Craft vs. Industrial Mezcal:
What’s the Difference?
Mezcal, the ancient and storied agave-based spirit from Mexico, has seen a meteoric rise in popularity over the past decade, capturing the attention of drinkers worldwide.
By MEZCULTURE / NOVEMBER, 2024
EVENTS
Mezcal, Mexico’s ancient agave-based spirit, has gained significant global attention in the past decade. Its distinct flavor, rooted in tradition and Mexican culture, appeals to those who appreciate spirits with depth and authenticity. However, with this growing popularity, the production of mezcal has shifted from purely small-scale, artisanal operations to larger, industrial approaches. This evolution has created a division between craft and industrial mezcal, each with unique production techniques, philosophies, and impacts on quality and sustainability.
Mezcal’s Rich History
Mezcal’s history dates back centuries to pre-Columbian Mexico, where indigenous people fermented agave for various purposes, including creating pulque, an early alcoholic beverage. The Spanish introduced distillation in the 16th century, giving rise to mezcal as we know it. Traditionally, mezcal was produced in rural areas, particularly in Oaxaca, Guerrero, Durango, and Puebla. Local families passed down mezcal-making techniques for generations, creating small batches that were enjoyed locally. The recent surge in global demand for craft spirits has propelled mezcal onto the international stage, prompting changes in production scale and methodology.
Craft Mezcal: Tradition and Artistry
Craft mezcal, known as mezcal artesanal or ancestral, adheres to time-honored methods. Typically made in small batches by mezcaleros, this production emphasizes quality, authenticity, and sustainability.
Mezcal is poured through a funnel to study the bubbles and determine the alcohol level in the drink. PHOTO: Burt Johnson
Traditional Production Steps:
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Agave Harvesting: Agave plants are selected carefully, with different species contributing distinct flavors. Many mezcaleros use wild agave, which can take 7-30 years to mature, enhancing flavor complexity.
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Roasting: The agave hearts, or piñas, are roasted in underground pits with heated stones, imparting mezcal’s signature smokiness. This process takes days and incorporates local wood and earth that contribute regional nuances.
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Crushing: The roasted piñas are crushed using a tahona, a heavy stone wheel pulled by animals, preserving rich sugars and flavors.
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Fermentation: Fermentation occurs in wooden or earthen vats with wild, natural yeasts. This process, lasting days or weeks, yields complex flavors due to natural interactions.
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Distillation: Craft mezcal is distilled in small, often handmade clay or copper stills, adding unique qualities. The controlled, small-batch distillation ensures only the heart of the spirit is kept.
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Aging (Optional): Some craft mezcals age in oak barrels, which may add notes of vanilla and spice, though many purists prefer the unaged joven form to showcase pure agave character.
The result is a spirit bursting with earthy, floral, fruity, and vegetal notes, encapsulating the essence of the region, agave species, and mezcalero expertise.
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Industrial Mezcal: Efficiency Over Tradition
To meet rising demand, industrial mezcal has become more prevalent. It uses modern, large-scale production methods that focus on efficiency and uniformity rather than traditional craftsmanship.
Industrial Production Steps:
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Agave Sourcing: Industrial producers rely on monoculture farming, often of Espadín, a fast-growing agave species. This can lead to environmental strain, as it depletes soil nutrients and reduces biodiversity.
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Cooking: Instead of roasting in pits, industrial operations use autoclaves, large steam ovens that cook agave quickly but lack the depth of traditional roasting, producing a cleaner, less smoky spirit.
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Crushing: Mechanized mills shred agave rapidly but can affect the fibers’ integrity, influencing fermentation and flavor.
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Fermentation: Commercial yeasts expedite fermentation, standardizing flavor profiles at the cost of unique, wild characteristics.
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Distillation: Conducted in larger, modern stills, industrial distillation prioritizes volume and consistency, lacking artisanal precision.
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Additives: Some producers use flavor enhancers, sweeteners, or glycerin to appeal to broader markets, which can mask agave’s authentic taste.
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Industrial mezcal is more consistent and accessible but often lacks the depth and connection to tradition found in craft versions.
Key Differences
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Production Scale: Craft mezcal is made in small batches with labor-intensive methods, while industrial mezcal focuses on large-scale output.
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Ingredients and Flavor: Craft versions use various agave species and natural processes, producing complex flavors. Industrial versions often standardize using Espadín and additives for smoother, more uniform tastes.
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Sustainability: Craft mezcal practices, like replanting and using diverse agave types, support ecological balance. Industrial operations often prioritize efficiency, risking soil depletion and biodiversity loss.
Cultural and Environmental Concerns
Craft mezcal embodies the heritage of mezcal-making, showcasing the deep-rooted relationships between mezcaleros, their communities, and the land. Protecting these traditional methods is essential for preserving the cultural legacy of mezcal. Industrial production, while addressing global demand, risks overshadowing these practices and may compromise sustainability through overharvesting and monoculture farming.
Choosing Between Craft and Industrial Mezcal
For those seeking a genuine mezcal experience with complex, smoky flavors and rich heritage, craft mezcal is the ideal choice. It offers a more authentic, varied drinking experience that supports traditional methods and sustainability. Industrial mezcal provides a more affordable and consistent product that serves as an introduction to the spirit but may lack the artisanal touch and full character of craft versions.